The Frau and I took an ICE train to Berlin from Hamburg and then spent about eight hours on bus to Krakow, Poland. It was a long bus ride, but it was a hell of a lot better than Greyhound!!! We arrived Sunday night and it was already dark. We were in a county where we had no money (they use zlotys?) and did not even know how to get to our hotel in the dark. It all turned out not to be a problem. There was a currency exchange on the way to our hotel that turned out to be not even 300 meters from the bus station. After settling into our room we decided to venture out to the old city to find something to eat. It was raining and we found a place that was comparable to an Appleby's or Chili's at home. I had quesadillas, very Polish! It was raining so we went back to our hotel to get ready for our first full day in Krakow.
The next day was grey and drizzly so we just spent the time walking around the Main Market Square where they were preparing for the Christmas Market. It was cold and we were there early so there were not very many people out and about.
Main Square in Krakow, Poland
Main Square in Krakow, Poland
The weather was terrible so we decided to visit the underground museum covering the history of medieval Krakow. The museum was very well done. At one point there was a glass ceiling that allowed you to look up at the steeples of St. Mary's.
Looking up at St. Mary's from the underground museum
Above the museum was a market that has been in operation for centuries. Now it sells mostly tourist items, but it is very colorful and dry when it is raining!
The market stalls
We spent the rest of the day just walking around trying to stay dry and warm. Krakow has an abundance of coffee shops that are excellent for that purpose. One thing that fascinated me was the Trumpeter of Krakow. On the hour a trumpeter from the steeple of St. Mary's plays a fanfare four times in each direction, north, south, east and west. The tune stops abruptly at one point in memory of a trumpeter that was shot by an arrow through his throat while trying to warn the inhabitants of an impending invasion. It was hauntingly beautiful. Here is a YouTube video of the trumpeter.
The next day we continued our city exploration. Of course, Krakow was home to Karol Wojtyła, who became Pope John Paul II. His image is everywhere and he is still very much loved and honored in this city. That was another thing that impressed me about Poland. In most of Europe the churches have become tourist attractions. In Poland the churches are used! It was not uncommon to see numbers of people praying in the churches and even adoring the Blessed Sacrament. And not just the elderly, young people were seen in great numbers in the churches. It was sort of refreshing to see their faith had not been lost like it has in Central Europe. The Catholic faith is a part of the Polish national identity.
Pope John Paul II's apartment when he was Bishop of Krakow
The next day we spent in the Jewish section of town and visited several former synagogues. Before World War II 250,000 Jews lived in Krakow. Today about only about 150 live there. That is 150 period, NOT 150,000. No typing mistake there. Of course, most of the synagogues are not in use any more and are museums or memorials. Only one synagogue is currently in use.
The Izaak Synagogue
That evening we discovered the cellar bars of Krakow. Krakow has been built up on itself many times and this has left many cellars that have been converted to pubs. These are not visible from the street and you have to develop an eye to find them. We were always the oldest in the bars, but the young folks did not seem to mind having us around.
The Frau enjoying a Tyskie
The next day we went to Oskar Schindler's Factory. Most everyone has seen the Spielberg film Schindler's List. Today the factory is a powerful museum and one of the best we have seen during our time in Europe.
Oskar Schindler's Factory
Schindler's List
Schindler's Factory today
This was our last evening in Krakow and we decided to spend it in the cellar bars. These were very cozy and inviting. I would be remiss if I did not mention the beauty of the Polish girls. They were stunningly beautiful, more so than any I have seen in the rest of Europe. I have to mention that, but I will say no more since I do not want to invoke the wrath of the Frau!
The next next day we repeated, in reverse, our bus and train trip back to Hamburg. Poland, and Krakow, in particular have a rich history and was very interesting to visit. I would go back in a heartbeat!
Our next trip is planned for next week and will be to Bavaria, my old home in Germany. We will be visiting the Christkindlmarkts in Augsburg, Munich, Nuremburg and Naumburg. I will probably not be posting from the road, but check back in about two weeks!
I know I have been very lax in keeping this blog up to date. At one point I had considered suspending it due to the political situation in the US, but I have come to realize that this is the way things will be in the future and I should just not try to fight it. It is difficult being an American in Europe as our president has lied to the leaders here about the activities of the NSA. When I look at the news from the states this is barely mentioned, but here it has been the only news for the last couple of months. That and the bumbled job the US did on the Affordable Care Act. But, enough of politics. There is nothing we can really do but vote and even that right is being attacked under the present administration.
What can I say about Prague? It was wonderful! I found the city to be magical. I know those are a lot of superlatives, but they are true! This will be a photo heavy post because I want to get the blog up to date. Unfortunately the weather was quite drab while we were there so the lighting for the photos is not that great. I have not processed these so they are "right off the card".
View of the Prague Castle
These were quite popular. Imagine doughnut dough grilled over charcoal. Tasty!
The main square in Prague
At night the church was illuminated.
Hey! I thought absinthe was illegal!!
Changing of the guard at Prague Castle
The church at Prague Castle
This post really does not do Prague justice. Let's just say it is a fascinating city and I hope to return there again!
First of all I would like to say that I considered closing this blog because of the political situation in my home country. The news from home that I am hearing in Europe is not good. It seems that my government is out of control and in total chaos. That may or may not be true, but with a superpower like the USA in disarray with an instrument as powerful as the NSA at its disposal one can easily imagine the outcome. That being said I have decide to keep this blog at least until I return to the US unless the news from home becomes more alarming. I am not trying to be an alarmist, but the view of the American government in Europe now is that the leaders are bumbling fools with a button to nuclear weapons. A dangerous situation not to be taken lightly. When I log onto American web sites for news the "bumbling fools" part is verified. Now, back to our regularly scheduled programming.
The Frau and I visited Dresden in the summer of 2006 and found the city undergoing massive renovation. Well, most of that renovation is complete and the city is beautiful. Dresden is one of my favorite German cities. The center of Dresden is dominated by the Frauenkirche. This church as been fully renovated in since we were last in Dreseden.
The Frauenkirche
The interior of the Frauenkirche
We spent almost all of our first day here just walking around and reacquainting ourselves with the city.
The Semper Opera
The Zwenger
The square downtown
On our last day in Dresden we took a boat ride on the Elbe River and and when we returned it was dusk. The city was lit up with warm incandescent lights and the sun was just dipping below the horizon. This made for a great photo opportunity.
Dresden at night
Dresden was great but after spending a few days here it was time to leave and hop the train to Prague. I had never been to Prague, so this would be a new city for me. But, that is for another post. Maybe tomorrow!
The Frau and I spent a week in Berlin so she could research at the German National Archives. My last visit to Berlin included a trip over the "Wall" into what was then East Berlin. That was in 1987. Since that time Germany has undergone reunification and Berlin is a different city. Our first impression of the "New Berlin" was our hotel room. Upon arrival the proprietors exclaimed "Ahhh, die Amerikaner sind hier!" (Oh! The Americans are here!) and showed us to our room. The room looked like something from old Las Vegas! It was painted a dark burgundy red and had large chairs with a leopard skin pattern. There was even a chandelier over the bed. At least we had a good Wi-fi connection!
Our hotel room in Berlin
The leopard skin chairs
Our first full day in Berlin we did the tourist thing. We went to the Brandenburg Gate and visited the sites downtown. Unfortunately the weather was not good, grey skies and drizzle.
The Brandenburg Gate
On my last visit to Berlin the Brandenburg Gate was in "no man's land" within the border area. Now people walk freely around, through and under the gate without fear of being shot.
We spent the entire day just walking and seeing the sites. Below are some photographs of the sites of Berlin.
Memorial to those killed trying to escape East Berlin over the Wall.
The Reichstag in Berlin
The Siegessäule
View of the Fehrnsehturm from Alexanderplatz. This was in East Berlin the last time I visited.
Monument to the Russian soldiers that liberated Berlin at the end of WWII
The monument to Marx and Engels is still there!
A portion of the Wall that was left standing as a memorial
The old Checkpoint Charlie
The "good ol' days"
These are just some of the impressions and sites in Berlin. There are still many renovation projects going on in the former east. Sometimes it seemed like the city was being totally rebuilt. I also visited the German Photography Museum and saw an exhibit on Helmut Newton. He was a fashion photographer in the latter half of the 20th century and not really my cup of tea. I lean more toward photo-journalistic and "National Geographic" style of photography. But, it was interesting none the less.
While in Berlin I also was privileged to visit two Masonic lodges. My wife's cousin is a 33rd degree Freemason (I am only a 32nd degree) and he introduced me to the Masonic circles of the city. There are two types of lodges in Germany, the Humanitarian and the Christian lodges. These names do not really describe the differences in the lodges, but it is the names the Germans use. The Humanitarian lodge I visited in Berlin was the Friedrich Ludwig Schroeder Lodge, No. 506. This meeting was a "Vortrag Abend" (Lecture Evening) and we heard a lecture on the current "moral code" in Germany. This was an informal evening and the discussion after the lecture became quite lively. Being and American, I stayed clear of the fray!
The next evening I visited the Zum goldenen Schiff Lodge, No. 68. This was the induction of a new member and therefore I cannot say much about what occurred during the proceedings. It was much different that on my US lodge! Zum goldenen Schiff is a Christian lodge that follows the Swedish form. This is very formal. I was wearing my tuxedo with black tie and white gloves and I was under dressed. Here it was white tie with top hat. It was very strange to me, but also very enlightening. These fellows take their Masonry serious!
When I was stationed in Germany in the 1970's I was a member of the Army Security Agency and was assigned to Field Station Augsburg. We worked closely with the Field Station in Berlin. I never was able to visit the Field Station in Berlin while it was in operation. It still exists (in ruins) and I decided to make the trip to the old site. It is totally in ruins and covered with graffiti. To think that while it was in operation it was a state of the art facility made me sad to see it in this condition. But, it was not the buildings that I thought of while here. It was the people. We were the front lines of military intelligence during the Cold War. We had a job to do, and we were excellent at it. Even today I cannot say much about what I did, but I am proud of it!
The guard shack at the entrance to Field Station Berlin
The ruins of Field Station Berlin
Graffiti covered almost everything
The "golf balls" that covered the antennas
Field Station Berlin (Teufelsberg) from a distance
Next week we are planning on traveling to Dresden and then on to Prague in the Czech Republic. I do not know if I will be able to post on the road or if I will have to wait until we return to Hamburg. Check back for more of the continuing travels of Kurt!
Last Sunday, October 6, the Frau and I made a day trip to Lubeck. Lubeck is one of the old "Hansa" cities and you can see this everywhere. A short walk from the central train station is the Hansa Tor or the (once) main gate in to the city. I was here about forty years ago with the Frau when we were young and newly engaged.
The Hanse Tor
The Frau
From there we went into the main part of town and discovered the annual Kartoffeltage (Potato Festival) was going on. We had lunch at the festival and then continued to explore the city.
Kartoffel Fest
Grilling wurst at the Kartoffel Fest
We then strolled through the town just watching the Northern Germans enjoy the unusually fine weather. Sitting in outside cafes the first weekend in October is a rarity!
Outdoor cafes
Lubeck is known for Marzipan. This is a candy that is made from almond paste and is absolutely one of my favorite candies. I simply cannot resist it! Niederegger is the best know of Lubecker Marzipan and, of course, I had to stop by and see the shop. I was very proud of myself for not buying any. I will eat enough of this come Christmas!
Niederegger Marzipan
As is always the case with the Frau, when we come upon one of the magnificent, centuries old churches, we have to go in. I really don't mind since these often provide fantastic photo possibilities.
Marienkirche
Marienkirche
Marienkirche
We really spent most of the day just wandering and seeing history at every turn. We finished our visit by walking along the river and seeing some interesting fishing boats on our way back to the train station.
Fishing boats along the river
Later this week the Frau and I are headed to Berlin for eight days. Our hotel there claims to provide Wi-fi service, but so far my experience has been that it was easier to get Wi-fi in Mexico than it is here! Check back in a few days to see if anything is posted. Of course, my Facebook friends and Twitter followers will be notified of all new posts.
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