Krakow, Poland

The Frau and I took an ICE train to Berlin from Hamburg and then spent about eight hours on bus to Krakow, Poland.  It was a long bus ride, but it was a hell of a lot better than Greyhound!!!  We arrived Sunday night and it was already dark.  We were in a county where we had no money (they use zlotys?) and did not even know how to get to our hotel in the dark.  It all turned out not to be a problem.  There was a currency exchange on the way to our hotel that turned out to be not even 300 meters from the bus station.  After settling into our room we decided to venture out to the old city to find something to eat.  It was raining and we found a place that was comparable to an Appleby's or Chili's at home.  I had quesadillas, very Polish!  It was raining so we went back to our hotel to get ready for our first full day in Krakow.

The next day was grey and drizzly so we just spent the time walking around the Main Market Square where they were preparing for the Christmas Market.  It was cold and we were there early so there were not very many people out and about.

Main Square in Krakow, Poland

Main Square in Krakow, Poland

The weather was terrible so we decided to visit the underground museum covering the history of medieval Krakow.  The museum was very well done.  At one point there was a glass ceiling that allowed you to look up at the steeples of St. Mary's.

Looking up at St. Mary's from the underground museum

Above the museum was a market that has been in operation for centuries.  Now it sells mostly tourist items, but it is very colorful and dry when it is raining!

The market stalls

We spent the rest of the day just walking around trying to stay dry and warm.  Krakow has an abundance of coffee shops that are excellent for that purpose.  One thing that fascinated me was the Trumpeter of Krakow.  On the hour a trumpeter from the steeple of St. Mary's plays a fanfare four times in each direction, north, south, east and west.  The tune stops abruptly at one point in memory of a trumpeter that was shot by an arrow through his throat while trying to warn the inhabitants of an impending invasion.  It was hauntingly beautiful.  Here is a YouTube video of the trumpeter.

The next day we continued our city exploration.  Of course, Krakow was home to Karol Wojtyła, who became Pope John Paul II.  His image is everywhere and he is still very much loved and honored in this city.  That was another thing that impressed me about Poland.  In most of Europe the churches have become tourist attractions.  In Poland the churches are used!  It was not uncommon to see numbers of people praying in the churches and even adoring the Blessed Sacrament. And not just the elderly, young people were seen in great numbers in the churches.  It was sort of refreshing to see their faith had not been lost like it has in Central Europe.  The Catholic faith is a part of the Polish national identity.

Pope John Paul II's apartment when he was Bishop of Krakow

The next day we spent in the Jewish section of town and visited several former synagogues.  Before World War II 250,000 Jews lived in Krakow.  Today about only about 150 live there.  That is 150 period, NOT 150,000.  No typing mistake there.  Of course, most of the synagogues are not in use any more and are museums or memorials.  Only one synagogue is currently in use.

The Izaak Synagogue

That evening we discovered the cellar bars of Krakow.  Krakow has been built up on itself many times and this has left many cellars that have been converted to pubs.  These are not visible from the street and you have to develop an eye to find them.  We were always the oldest in the bars, but the young folks did not seem to mind having us around.

The Frau enjoying a Tyskie

The next day we went to Oskar Schindler's Factory.  Most everyone has seen the Spielberg film Schindler's List.  Today the factory is a powerful museum and one of the best we have seen during our time in Europe.

Oskar Schindler's Factory

Schindler's List

Schindler's Factory today

This was our last evening in Krakow and we decided to spend it in the cellar bars.  These were very cozy and inviting.  I would be remiss if I did not mention the beauty of the Polish girls.  They were stunningly beautiful, more so than any I have seen in the rest of Europe.  I have to mention that, but I will say no more since I do not want to invoke the wrath of the Frau!

The next next day we repeated, in reverse, our bus and train trip back to Hamburg.  Poland, and Krakow, in particular have a rich history and was very interesting to visit.  I would go back in a heartbeat!

Our next trip is planned for next week and will be to Bavaria, my old home in Germany.  We will be visiting the Christkindlmarkts in Augsburg, Munich, Nuremburg and Naumburg.  I will probably not be posting from the road, but check back in about two weeks!